carrotfueled

Oh no. I guess I'll throw out the smoked cheddar ones in the car, then. Clearly this is why I don't send.

Thanks for doing this Sean! You're an inspiring athlete. My questions might be a bit specific for r/IAMA since I thought you'd be doing this on r/climbing..

Since you just released the campus video, I figured I'd ask a couple questions about that.

1. You seem to eschew the 1-5-9, which for many boulderers is considered the paragon of power training. You also seem to do multiple laps of doubles. I'm wondering if these two deviations from the norm are because you split your season with sport climbing? Obviously a video of you campusing is not gospel for your training regimen, I'm just grasping at straws here.

2. Any thoughts on the original Wolfgang method of campusing, i.e. a small concentric contraction is immediately followed by a full-power eccentric contraction. For instance, clutching down a rung, and then immediately trying to skip 3 rungs with one arm. A non-climbing example would be athletes holding an air squat, and then immediately doing box jumps or similar.

3. You obviously do a ton of physical training.. but you've also flashed a V13 and regularly flash very hard routes in competition, so you must also have excellent decision-making skills. Do you do any movement training or technical drills? Or just lots of competing and onsighting?

4. Do you do isolated finger strength training (weighted fingerboard, heavy finger rolls, etc) or do you always train in a movement scenario?

5. You are clearly very serious about your training. IIRC, you're training with the French national team? Do you have a separate personal coach? Any idols or training gurus you look up to? What would you say the basis of your training is? Also, I just want to say that going to train in Europe is clearly cheating, since they are leagues ahead of us!

6. Since those are all probably way too boring and specific, here's an easy one. Favorite boulder problem ever? In the USA? I'll be in Squamish for the first time this season, what's your favorite problem there? (maybe around V11 or 12... I'm only mortal.)

I also want to say I really enjoy your style of blogging where you go into a lot of depth about the competitions, each specific decision you make and how it affects your performance. I'm not a competitor, but there are lots of similarities with climbing outside - deciding what to try, what to give a serious flash attempt, which beta to choose, blah blah. Thanks for your contributions to our little community!

Daymang, fighter de la nightmang. Champeen of the sun, esse.

Obviously, feel free not to answer all of these, since I basically asked for a novel. I might be a climbing dork.

Half a gallon? You'll never bulk up with only half a gallon a day. Do you even climb?