Hi Sean thanks for the AMA, I have two questions for you:
You started climbing at age 10 and climbed 5.14a at age 12! Was this a project that was maybe a ways ahead of your ability at the time that you just worked extra hard on or were you at the 5.14a level and had climbed many 13 bs cs and ds?
I was also wondering if you had any advice on wrist instability. My wrist is fine most of the time while climbing but when I'm on macro slopers it seems like my hand kind of disengages from my wrist if I'm not super careful about how I put my hand on the sloper (and it's hard to be careful in a dyno or campus move!). It seems to suck my motivation because I wonder if all the training I'm doing is useless if my wrists wrists will hold me back from climbing at a top level. I was wondering if you know any pro climbers that have the same problem (like why does akiyo noguchi tape her wrists?) or if you had any strengthening advice for wrists? anything would help thanks alot!
rdpman943 karma
Hi Sean thanks for the AMA, I have two questions for you:
You started climbing at age 10 and climbed 5.14a at age 12! Was this a project that was maybe a ways ahead of your ability at the time that you just worked extra hard on or were you at the 5.14a level and had climbed many 13 bs cs and ds?
I was also wondering if you had any advice on wrist instability. My wrist is fine most of the time while climbing but when I'm on macro slopers it seems like my hand kind of disengages from my wrist if I'm not super careful about how I put my hand on the sloper (and it's hard to be careful in a dyno or campus move!). It seems to suck my motivation because I wonder if all the training I'm doing is useless if my wrists wrists will hold me back from climbing at a top level. I was wondering if you know any pro climbers that have the same problem (like why does akiyo noguchi tape her wrists?) or if you had any strengthening advice for wrists? anything would help thanks alot!
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